Recent coverage: Source magazine

Last summer I spoke to new local London magazine 'Source' for their A/W 2014 launch issue about knitwear and the challenges of running a business (challenge being the operative word, given that I was six months pregnant at the time and now have a five month old baby!). The magazine came out at the end of last year and is available to pick up free in local cafes, independent shops and bars around north and east London.

Interview: Helene Dancer, photography: Tara Darby

Interview: Kira Heuer at Bib & Sola

In the second of my series of quick interviews, I've spoken to Kira Heuer, founder of Bib & Sola. You may remember Bib & Sola (meaning 'drink and comfort' in Latin) from a post I did a month or so ago featuring their pop-up shop, Imbue. Purveyors of beautiful things, they stock a selection of very carefully edited products, including the beautiful hand-blown Murano glass carafe you see pictured below, as well as a few of our very own pieces from the AW12 collection.

Kira (pictured above with Oliver Proudlock of Made in Chelsea on the left, at the Imbue launch) took time out of her busy schedule to chat to me about her thoughts on Bib & Sola and the water plight that means so much to her:

The philosophy behind Bib & Sola places a lot of influence behind raising awareness of the increasing rarity of water. What inspired you to raise awareness about this? 

It began with a story in National Geographic, something struck me about a group of women water bearers and I wanted to know more. The next thing I knew, I was deep in documentaries and reading anything I could get my hands on.

Do you think that fashion with a greater cause is the way forward? 

I think awareness is the way forward in all industries. The fashion world has such an incredible influence on so many levels.  I don't think we need to stand on our pedestal and preach, I think it is more in creating a thoughtfulness.  Aesthetics that inspire a thoughtfulness to connect a bit more to bringing a sense of balance. 

Your first range of products is a collection of Venetian hand-blown glass water carafes. What was it that made you choose these as your launch product? 

The glass vessels are an old world tradition in drinking, harnessing civility in that you have your own personal drinking carafe. As you drink from your water set, you are connected to something bigger then you. I also wanted to work with hand blown glass, Murano glass in particular, as it represents an art form that I covet. Such a beautiful artisanal tradition with a relevant history. 

How are you hoping Bib & Sola will evolve in the future?  

There are great plans for the future; we are working with some collaborators at the moment, as well as gifting, hotel and restaurant talks.  We are also looking to work with well known artists to do their own work on the carafes and presenting them as limited editions - using the carafes as the blank canvas to connect aesthetics with ethics. 

In an economic environment where people are looking for ways to cut costs on their personal spending, how would you encourage consumers to invest in luxury products with a conscience? 

I think you bring up a great point when you ask this question, invest being the operative word.  We need to take a breath and purchase from a place which becomes special to you.  Something that will last and become part of a lineage. As for conscious purchases, ask questions.  Find out where it was made, what the products do to the environment, the people producing the products.  These questions will lead to more questions - awareness is key. Try to respect and support the ones spending the time to do right and give them power.  Fair trade is always a great empowerment on all levels.

What is your ultimate aim for the Bib & Sola brand? 

To become a well-known brand for water awareness using art, design and editorial as the elements to drive the voice. 

What can we expect to see from Bib & Sola over the next year? 

We are getting great responses from our blog so we decided to expand our editorial side.  We will be taking on contributing writers and developing our "water stories".  We will also be working with well known artists… but I don't want to give too much away!

How would you encourage fashion conscious consumers to consider the ethical implications of their habits? 

I think we need to move away from shock and guilt, find ways to inspire each other to be part of something that has the ability to strengthen rather then weaken.  Create ways to come together, play off each other and try to make it fun.  The subject matter can be quite daunting for some so the only way we can gain positive momentum and change is through collaborations, inspiration and enjoyment for what you are part of. 

What advice would you give to someone looking to start their own business in the art/design world? 

Learn how to chase, find ways to get in front of people and ask questions.  Make the questions clever, make an impression. Just this alone can open up many different opportunities. Think outside of the box, tell your story, give people a reason to want to be a part of your plight. 

In an industry where art and design items are often sold privately for millions of pounds, where do you think ethical design fits in? 

I think it is not about the price tag, it is about thoughtfulness behind the object.  The story, the materials, the reason the designer felt compelled to create it.  These object d'art are part of our world and are relevant to those that collect.  Yet, the ethical side of it is just as relevant and the worthiness of where and how it was made should be a considered an important factor as to creating a higher worth. Wouldn't that be nice…

Authentic Venetian hand-blown glass is quite a rare find these days. What is it about glass that appealed to you as a medium to work with? 

My grandmother used to take me to Venice when I was a little girl, I was fascinated by the glass blowers and could watch them for hours.  The lineage behind the Murano glass is of another world that I want to support and sustain. It becomes quite difficult for these artisanal glass blowing factories to stay strong due to other ways of manufacturing and it is important that we keep them going! They have a quality you can not find anywhere else. It is in their blood from generations past.  There is something very sacred about this.

Interview: 5 minutes with Amy Hall

Ella Catliff set up her blog La Petite Anglaise while she was interning in Paris, in order to record her exploits and thoughts on fashion in the capital.  Now that she's back in London she covers all the fashion weeks and blogs about anything in the industry that catches her eye.

She interviewed me a couple of weeks ago and you can read what I had to say here.

Interview: Joshua Castro at Wolf & Badger

I'm going to start doing a series of quick interviews with collaborators and supporters of the brand.  

I've decided to start with self-proclaimed 'maximalist' Joshua Castro, who is store manager for our stockist, Wolf & Badger and has worked with us a great deal since we joined the W&B family earlier this year (see him pictured below with me, in the Notting Hill branch): 

Wolf & Badger has been described as one of the top 10 shops in London, despite only having been established for 2 and a half years. What do you think is the secret to its success? 

All the amazing designers that we have and the constant change of stock keeps interest levels high.

On a day-to-day basis, what does your role at W&B entail? 

Day to day running of the stores, supporting designers, merchandising...

Which designers do you personally wear?

Margiela, Dries van Noten, Lanvin and Bathing Ape - Nigo (founder of the brand), completely changed the face of fashion marketing - he is an absolute genius! 

Many people who’ve worked with you have commented on how much they admire your personal style. Who or what do you think is your greatest inspiration?

Having good fashion history knowledge

What do you think is the key to good personal style?

Knowing yourself

Where in London do you like to shop?

Small independent stores

What is the most valuable fashion advice you’ve ever received?

Always take off the last accessory that you've put on (not that I ever do that, I always just add another one instead!  I am a true maximalist).

The phrase ‘style icon’ is bandied about a lot these days, who do you think deserves to be called a true style icon and why? 

The women, like Iris Apfel, that Ari Seth Cohen photographs for Advanced Style are my icons because they have the most evolutionary style.

What advice would you give to someone hoping to work in fashion retail?

If you're prepared to put in the hard work it is very fulfilling. It is always a lovely feeling to help somebody look their best. 

Latest press coverage: Knitting magazine

This month's issue of Knitting magazine features a designer profile on yours truly. See below (click to enlarge) or read it here.

Interview with Top Stylista

Following the Vogue interview the other week is another Q&A, this time with Jamie from fashion site Top Stylista.

While I'm here I thought I'd give one of those exclusive shots from the new S/S 2012 collection another airing. I hope you like it. More to follow soon...

Interview with Verena Hafner

Stylist and blogger Verena Hafner got in touch with me recently, wanting to do a feature on her blog about the AW 11 collection with a short interview. You can see what she's written about the new collection here, but I thought I'd print the interview for your reading pleasure:

What is your first fashion memory?

It would have to be learning to knit with my mother and grandmother. This is probably the case with many girls, but it was a generational thing, as my mother remembers her grandmother knitting with her too – and smoking simultaneously! When the sweaters were finished they used to have to hang them out to air for a week before they could be worn to get rid of the smell.

Any time I wanted something and my mother said no, I’d just go off and make it instead. It mostly applied to toys but I definitely did it with clothing and accessories too, usually things I’d spotted on the pages of glossy fashion magazines which I’ve been hooked on for as long as I can remember. I used to read and re-read issues of the now defunct Clothes Show magazine which I saved up my pocket money to buy. Under their influence, I’d spend hours doing ‘fashion sketches’ (which, if unearthed now, I’d probably be mortified about, they were pretty bad). I was convinced I was going to be a fashion designer, but then ended up doing a photography degree.

When did you decide this was the career you wanted to pursue?

I spent a few years working as a photographer, but craved something more and missed the whole process of knitting, so decided professional photography just wasn’t for me. I changed my career and started to teach knitting, something that I love and still do now. In fact, last week I was at Central Saint Martins speaking to the students there. It was inspiring to see such interest and enthusiasm for knitwear.

In late 2009, while I was teaching, I started creating my own bespoke pieces which, when I wore out, attracted a lot of attention. After the fifth person asked where they could buy one of my pieces, I decided that I’d try launching a collection. It was the right decision!

You mainly use British lambs wool and Peruvian alpaca. What draws you to these materials and how do they influence your designs?

I want to use British yarns as much as possible because I think it’s important to support local yarn producers in the current economic climate. The British yarn industry used to be huge but it’s been dying out, which is a terrible shame. I make an exception for alpaca because it’s such a beautiful, warm, fun yarn to work with. But I’ve recently discovered some British alpaca farms so I intend to pay them a visit before I start work on next season – I feel a collaboration coming on! As well as provenance, another crucial element to my work is the variety of yarn weights. I love the contrast between a super chunky knit and something finer. I expect those differences will become more exaggerated in future collections.

Which themes and ideas are behind your AW11 collection?

The AW11 collection was inspired by Russian fashions and traditions – I found my first collection was very well received in Russia so I looked at traditional cold weather clothing there; capes, furs, Cossack hats, Dr Zhivago style outfits. But I also infused the collection with some simplified shapes influenced by classic Japanese design.

What are the next steps for brand going to be? Any upcoming projects you can speak about?

I’m about to finish working on spring summer, which is a first for me. I found it difficult initially to get into the idea of designing knitwear for summer, as previously my work has been so chunky and cosy. But it’s amazing how quickly you get immersed in an idea and swept along by it. If an idea is exciting, it generates its own momentum and I’m looking forward to seeing how the public will react to it.